Five Ten climbing shoe reviews
My Five Ten shoe reviews and which climbing shoes fit your feet.
Why Five Ten climbing shoes?
Five Ten is the brand you turn to when you want shoes that stick. Whether it’s a polished gym volume or slick sandstone slab, Stealth Rubber grips in a way that makes you think twice about ever switching brands. They’ve also nailed a mix of comfort and performance—some of their shoes have become “lifers” for climbers who buy the same model over and over.
For boulderers and sport climbers, shoes like the Hiangle and NIAD VCS (formerly Anasazi) are favorites for their precision, durability, and all-around usability. Trad climbers have long trusted the NIAD Lace and NIAD Moccasym for crack climbing and all-day comfort. And for the performance-obsessed, the Hiangle Pro offers competition-level precision and a smooth toe patch for hooking.
Five Ten climbing shoe models
Check out my Five Ten reviews below!
Five Ten Hiangle Climbing Shoes Review | Fit & Foot shape
Five Ten NIAD VCS Climbing Shoes Review | Fit & Foot shape
Five Ten Niad Lace Climbing Shoes Review | Fit & Foot shape
Five Ten NIAD Moccasym Climbing Shoes Review | Fit & Foot shape
Five Ten Kirigami Climbing Shoes Review | Fit & Foot shape
Five Ten Hiangle Pro Competition Climbing Shoes Review | Fit & Foot shape
Fit & Sizing – Who’s Five Ten For?
Five Ten sizing has its own personality—and it’s not always predictable. Depending on the model, you’ll either be smiling at the perfect out-of-the-box fit or wondering why your toes feel like they’re on holiday in the toe box.
Medium to Wide Feet: This is where Five Ten shines. Most of their lasts (the shape they build the shoe around) are a little roomier through the forefoot and toe box compared to La Sportiva or Scarpa’s narrower, more aggressive shapes. If you’ve ever felt pinched in those brands, Five Ten can feel like a breath of fresh air.
Narrow Feet: Not impossible, but you’ll need to be a bit more picky. Shoes like the Hiangle and NIAD VCS can still work, especially if you size down a little more than usual.
Volume: Generally medium-to-high volume. If you have very low-volume feet (thin top-to-bottom), expect a bit of extra space unless you go aggressive with sizing.
Sizing tips:
If you’re in between sizes, most climbers go true-to-street or half-size down for performance, and half-size up for comfort/all-day wear.
Unlined leather models like the Moccasym will stretch—a lot. Size these tight if you want a performance fit.
Synthetic or lined models like the NIAD Lace/VCS won’t stretch as much, so choose something snug but bearable from the start.
Five Ten fit compared to other brands
If La Sportiva is known for their laser-precision fit and Scarpa for their soft, sensitive shoes, Five Ten feels more like the “grippy workhorse” of climbing. The shapes are a bit simpler, the fits a little less aggressive in the arch, but when you find a model that works for your foot, you’ll probably keep buying it for years.
The one caveat? If you’ve got very narrow feet, some models might feel a bit roomy. But for medium-width and slightly wider feet, they’re a great match.
Five Ten shoes are a little like that old climbing partner who never lets you down—reliable, maybe a bit scruffed up, but always ready to send.
For Beginners & Intermediate Climbers
Five Ten’s lineup covers a wide spectrum. If you’re just starting out, the Kirigami or NIAD Moccasym make great first or second shoes—comfortable, durable, and still plenty grippy.
Intermediate climbers can pretty much pick their flavor: stiffer shoes for edging, softer shoes for smearing, or something in between.
And advanced climbers? The aggressive downturn and powerful toe of the Hiangle will feel right at home on your hardest problems.e new or climbing 1–2 times a week, these are no-brainer options.
